I arise at 5:30am and go for a walk. Fifty yards towards the main lodge from our bank of rooms I stroll to the lakeshore. Before me is majesty. Nature creating a backdrop scene of mountains reflected into still water and a ribbon of cloud to complete a great painter’s masterpiece. I laugh as I think of something Bob Ross might say. He taught painting on PBS years ago in his very calm relaxed style but for any viewer what he really conveyed was a sense of peace we all need through the doing of something we love, something that connects us to our reason for bring and contributing to this world. What night Bob Ross say sitting here on this beach - “how about that, there’s a happy tree over here, and a cool cloud over there; yes my friends, you can do anything you want, be free, there are no mistakes, only happy little accidents...” The view is indeed calming and spiritual. To say thank you to be able to enjoy the purity of nature’s balance. The lake and this lodge would be a fine place go sit and write a novel. The Norsemen gather after 8:00am. Chores necessary to be done. Disorganization with the details of morning preparations. I find that my bike front has flatted again overnight. The tube is changed once again, likely a “pinch flat” where the tube is kinked inside the tire while initially lasted. Sherpa helps me to change it again. We depart and spin towards Port Angeles and stop for brunch at Granny’s Cafe. Standard fare. Continue onward and then I flat up the road again just 12miles into the day. I am worried now - perhaps a rim or spoke problem. Peter and I place my bike on the car’s roof and head for a bike shop about 10mi down the road in Port Angeles, the Bike Garage. The others will meet us there. Sherpa needs his transmission fixed as well. Tom and sister, Donna, operate a small shop full of gear and a work area. Tom kindly asks a series of questions to help diagnose and gets to work. Punch flat, he shies me. Nothing more serious. I bring along a new tube and tire as we notice a small crack in the tire as well. Sherpa arrives and Tom fixes his bike as well. Spotty needs a new helmet since his rear plastic piece that cinches to the sidewalls of his helmet has broken in transit on the plane. He selects one. We purchase more CO2 cartridges as well for back-up. I turn to my bike and begin to roll it out of the shop and the front tire has flatted again! Goodness gracious. Day 2 and I am frustrated by not having my bike working properly. Tom studies again and must admit that he caused a pinch flat himself. I am worried there is truly something more going on but he sets a new tube in place and we head out. We begin the climb a mere block from sea level in town. Race Rd climbs steadily and we turn on Hurricane Ridge Rd. The grade increases steadily for a persistent climb. I designed our journey and realized the need to irritate our legs for the toughness needed to overcome long days in the saddle, to suffer in the legs a bit to reach higher altitudes and grand vistas, to realize anything is possible with persistence and will. Sherpa and Breezer move ahead and I chart a steady uphill course with Spotty. He is working hard. Pushing his pedal strokes. I encourage and give him some Bob Ross-like positive imagery. We climb to the gated entrance to the National Park. Hundreds of cats are lined to enter on this beautiful Memorial Day holiday weekend. Mile 5 now into the eighteen mile climb. Spotty has had enough and I congratulate him on his accomplishment. He is getting stronger with each day. Peter is waiting for us and informs me if the other’s progress towards the apex. Another thirteen miles awaits. Spotty relaxes in the van. I am sending a chase. I refuel with a peanut butter and honey sandwich and cool water. Turn to the road and dial up Epic North on my iPhone’s Spotify App. Norsemen. I think of Vikings, explorers, conquerors. The rhythm energized me as I accelerate uphill and pace fiercely. I eventually settle into a steady tempo with the road. “Take what the road gives you...” Balance. Posture. Set the mind to know no pain, only rapture with the elements as the mountain shoes her colors - wildflowers, mountain goats, snow capped neighbors, near vertical valleys decorated with waterfalls, the simple and complete beauty of pine cones and happy trees. The time passes. A climbing pace of 6-8mph steadily brings me near the summit. Peter and Spotty locate Breezer a mile from the apex. Spotty rejoins is now for the finish as we gut the last mile to the apex and find Sherpa admiring the view. We are at Hurricane Ridge. We”be climbed over 5000 feet. Staring at us is the Olympic Mountain range drizzled with ice and snow and vastness. I was at this spot (by car drive) nearly ten years ago and likely never would have imagined having the opportunity to bike climb this road to its summit. How life brings you to where you need to be? We wait for a break in the traffic. An 18 mile downhill spin needs proper respect. Sherpa and I take-off and start to corner the switchbacks in the road. Steady cadence, then accelerate. We are moving faster than the cars and pass them, others kind to pull off for us. Breezer and Spotty not far behind. The joy in speed and wind and yes, an element of real danger yet tempered by years of practice and confidence. Over forty miles per hour in the saddle. Just a number no different from one’s age in life. Youth should not relinquish to age so quickly. We meet at the bottom. Nearly nearly four hours of climbing erased by a mere twenty minutes going downhill. Hard work rewarded with an injection of adrenaline and happiness for what was accomplished. The dividends find themselves through assisting with other challenges in one’s life. Adversity as a source for spiritual advancement. The Norsemen head east now. We spin along a busy stretch of Tt101 and turn left onto Old Olympic Highway. Back to countryside. Farms. Mulch and manure aromas. Lavender farms. Cows. Early evening more gentle light. And then a road sign partially obstructed by a tree. I stop and focus my eyes fine sure it says what I think it does: Soaring Hawk Ln. indeed! Right here in Agnew, WA. A country road in a most pleasant and fertile valley brings me happiness. My nickname is ‘Soaring Hawk.’ The coincidences in life lead me to believe that there really aren’t any. The truth lies elsewhere in a grander connectivity if we only choose to accept and ask ‘Why?’ later. Maybe the ‘Why?’ doesn’t even matter to fully comprehend. I am with Spotty. We turn left on Kitchen Dick Rd and spin past farms and a glorious home beside a resting pond. The road veers right and becomes Lotzgessel Rd; left onto Cays Rd and then right onto Marine Dr as we enter Dungeness. Couples enjoying the sunset from the expanse overlooking Dungeness Bay. We turn left onto Cline Spit Rd and the road ends at a small stretch of beach. The sun and clouds are giving a grand drive-in show to a handful of lovers. Dungeness Spit is in front of us. It is a natural extension of land into the Strait of Juan de Fuca thereby creating this wildlife sanctuary bay. A bald eagle darts and is chased by other birds. Seagulls squawk. Ducks cruise. The colors transform the water and sky into happy magical accidents. Spotty is in a playful mood. He throws a stone into the ocean and takes o photographic burst in his iPhone. The images are creative like works of glass art. A ballet of moving yet frozen-in-time water splashes and individual droplets. Quite artistic photography. Sun enters ocean. Darkness now. We ate hungry. Our eighty miles of riding are done for the day. We venture into the town of Sequim. The one restaurant still open at this late hour has closed its kitchen. We continue to the 7Bears Casino on the way and devour a few pizzas and rehydrate. Peter finishes the drive into Port Townsend as we digest our dinner and our second day. Norsemen bonding and ready for yet more adventure. I check us in to the Tides Inn and we head to bed. There’s a ferry to catch early in the morning to Whidbey Island. I can hardly wait to return.
We are 4 men on a mission to cycle coast-to-coast across our 'Norse' lands, in the spirit of the Vikings who voyaged to our continent over 1000 years ago! Our ride will be an endurance challenge and amazing adventure. This blog will record our story and scenic photos. We are also pedaling to raise funds for lifesaving treatments provided by the Children's Healthcare of Atlanta. Please support our ride's mission with your kind donation to CHOA.
Thursday, May 30, 2019
Stage 2: May 26, 2019
Wednesday, May 29, 2019
Stage 1: May 25, 2019





Wheels roll eastward. The sound of spinning returns me to my own youth ever again. The cycle of life. I am gaining an enduring appreciation for the interconnection of all things. The completeness I receive through cycling. I revel in this moment and squawk with joy towards my kin. A new adventure finally begins. Cape Loop Rd spins us towards Neah Bay, the most western town along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The Makah Indian headquarters. Large totem carvings. Bird images. Pass the cultural center as we exit the quiet stretch. A cemetery with grave plots decorated with Native American art. Steady short climbs and bends and descents. We are hugging the coast from a precipice. Coolness mixed with episodic rainfall. Ever shifting cloud cover. The Strait to our left is known as the Whale Trail for our migrating mammal friends who are often sited along their own journey to warmer waters. We cross the Sekiu River where its mouthy effluent finally meets the ocean. Then across the Hoko River and spin through the small town of Sekiu and onward a few miles to Clallam Bay. The road bends right and inland as we begin a steady 18mile climb along Rt112 to the Sappho Junction.

Through this area lay thick forests, dotted lakes, and ugly clear cut harvested tree sections. I focus on the beauty of the blue wildflowers and yellow budded bushes reflected by the sun’s warmth. The air remains cool, a crispy refreshing taste from the mix brewed by oxygenating forests and the sea. Skies ever threateningly gray. Shifting light. I am accompanying my son for his first long and steady climb of the journey. It is like observing a child’s first steps. The struggle to maintain proper posture and balance and stamina. Encouragement offered. A bit of razzing as well. His buttocks and quads not quite ready for the more dramatic ascents that we will soon attempt to conquer along this journey but I know he is a quick learner and was born with a naturally inclined hearty dose of motivation to succeed. A self-learner and tinkerer. Jonah and I, along with my daughter Abigail and a few close friends and our dog Violet, have been hiking sections of the Appalachian Trail (AT) these past eight years or so. I recall now a well-known aphorism on the AT among thru-hikers, those who venture to hike the entire 2200mi length of the AT northbound from Georgia to Maine (southbound sojourners not withstanding) in one continuous stretch. “No Rain, No Maine.” The travails of hardship through rainy mountain passes, the mental toughness needed to overcome weather’s challenges that can sap morale through depravity of homely comforts along the trail. I turn to Jonah as he struggles physically to pedal up another steeper section and think of a slightly more appropriate version of this phrase for the moment, perhaps many more ahead on our own “thru-bike”across North America. “You know Jonah: No pain, no Maine.”

Our journey is headed to the coast of Maine in forty-one days. No pain, no Maine... Hopefully he will elevate his mind just as he does his tush off his bike seat to lessen his discomfort from time-to-time. I notice his icy blue eyes are beginning to engage nature. The calls of birds and insects and the wind. The aromas of dewy ferns and wildflowers. The tastes of ocean air and cool gusts. We push to the junction to mile45. “Well done, Spotty!” I congratulate him. Jonah earned his nickname in Capetown, South Africa one year prior. We were visiting Peter’s family and enjoying bucket list bush safaris near Kruger National Park. We entered the grand cycling event - the Cape Argus race in Capetown - and Jonah was wearing a colorful spotted jersey. Not nearly a single mile from the start and the locals lining the route kept offering him congratulatory words - “Well done, Spotty!” and I laughed and sneered at them. But we have 66 more miles to go?! Turns out it is a common British and South African slang for encouragement. Peter, Sherpa and Breezer are relaxing at the van. Jonah calls it a successful first day. He is drained and needs rest. I take in some nutrition. The three older Norsemen continue onward as we turn right on Hwy101, cross over the Sol Duc River and turn left onto Mary Clark Rd. We enter the Olympic Discovery Trail, a tremendous network of paved forested bike-walk paths in the region. Wonderful planning by those with the vision to create the opportunity to enjoy the solitude with nature on foot or bicycle.

Twenty miles later we pop out of the dreamy verdant woods in a euphoric state to see the van parked at the trailhead. No reason to stop just now. The evening is young and our hotel accommodations just ten miles down the main road. But across the road the Discovery Trail continues. Why not continue on and enjoy a bit more of the forest. We do, of course. Adrenaline-enriched excitement of day one still pulsating through us. Peter and Jonah venture off to check into the hotel, the Lake Crescent Lodge, located on the south side of the nearly twelve miles long lake. Our trail winds and we take care cornering on wet pavement covered with pine needles and slick moss. At mile66 I see a straightaway before me and begin to experience a surge of energy emanating from my legs and to my core. I relax my breathing rate and pace through the forest light. I begin to notice blue waters below a ridge line to my right.
This must be Lake Crescent. Uh oh - I realize we are on the north side of the lake instead of the south. Oh well. What’s a few extra miles added here and there to another journey of over three thousand?! I think back to my Blaze trip two years prior. The wonderful experience of serendipity. ‘Take what the road gives you.. Everything will be alright...’ It will be alright. I accelerate. Thirty mph and holding gloriously steady. Three miles in a forest tunnel. My mind I returns me to dawn at the beach. Soaring with the eagle. I am beside my son rushing downhill. Menories etching a new adventure. Glorious endless flow of radiant energy. Happiness. An interruption. ‘Kchhh-Ssssssss.’ I have struck a small rock with my front wheel and have flatted my tire’s inner tube. Stop or go on. Sherpa and Breezer are somewhere behind me now. I can ride for a bit on a flat without injuring my wheel rims. I decide to continue for a few more miles as the flow recedes. But then the paved trail section turns to gravel. Not good. Hopefully it is for just a brief section. I continue carefully but then travel becomes too dangerous as gravel becomes chunks and boulders and roots and tree splittings. I need these wheels for forty more days. I stop reluctantly. The irony is that, while immersed in nature, our delicate racing bikes require man-made pavement to take us safely on this journey. Sherpa and Breezer arrive. Sherpa demonstrates his flat fixing skills once again. I admit I am not very adept at the machinations but am learning.
Fixed up, we continue and need to portage our bikes over the terrain. No riding on these unorganized cobblestones and forest debris. If only we carried mountain bikes in our back jersey pockets for just these occasions. We continue our “bike-hike” along a trail hugging a plateau of the lake. I can see our lodge across the way now. How pleasant it would be to sip a cold drink wrapped inside an Adirondack chair along the lake beachfront. If only a “bike-swim” could be easily accomplished instead but I imagine the 300 foot deep waters are a bit frigid in this early Spring. Eventually, after a few miles of bike-hiking and passing hikers and mountain bikers enjoying their experience, the messiness of the trail gives way to civilization at a parking lot where friendly pavement allows us to continue to cycle around the northeastern tip of the lake.
The sunset igniting the farthest mountains over the wondrously serene waters. A lone kayaker making a perfectly geometric triangular wake. Lake Crescent is one of the most beautiful natural amalgamation of water and land one can be thankful to see in a lifetime. Curved around a massive cropping of granite and trees. Mountains layered behind and above the horizon. It will be our home tonight and a visual sunrise feast for tomorrow.
We arrive at the lodge nearly ninety miles into our first quite pleasant and full day. Our bikes muddied from the trail. It is after eight o’clock. Sherpa and Breezer hose off our cycles as I shower quickly and then drive with Peter about twenty minutes up the road in the van to fetch take-out dinner from Tendy’s Garden on East First St. Website declares it has been voted a “Top 100 Chinese Restaurant in the US” but no saying by which agency. We enter and order a mix of dishes to satisfy the hungry Norsemen. We race back to the lodge. Breezer is in a philosophical mood as dinner is devoured and begins to discuss pleasant life memories and meanings. His love for his now departed mother. The essential question of the meaning behind our existence. Heady thoughts for day one into our journey. I like his style nevertheless. We may have more in common than I have realized. Fortune cookies are sorted. I inform my new traveling clan how I love the wisdom of fortunes but warn them to choose their cookies wisely. They scoff. As they read they find nothing particularly special inside. Accidental duds? I open mine with an open mind and smile before reading its contents out loud: “A quiet evening with friends is the best tonic for a long day.” How about that! Indeed, it is.
As others turn in, Breezer and I relax at the main lodge. Blog time to collect our thoughts. The building is a beautiful structure, not too imposing to challenge the beauty of the lake. I sit beside the fireplace and relax and type a few notes but my eyes are heavy. Nineteen hours into the first day I must return to the room and drift to sleep. It is my wife Judy’s birthday today. We have been created and paired together to realize that love has no end. A cyclist’s dream climb awaits tomorrow. There will be no shortcuts to Maine. —————— “Soaring high, through Norselands Ocean to Land, and back again No beginning, No end”
-SH-
(I will end each stage with what I like to call a “Bike-OO” (similar to a haiku)
Sunday, May 26, 2019
En Route to Starting Point
Down the last minute packing tasks and colorful
adventures begin the transformation from daily life to adventurers. The
Delta flight from Atlanta to Seattle is uneventful. I have been
consistently thinking and tweaking the upcoming journey’s itinerary. The
map that will undoubtedly be re-routed from time-to-time despite best
intentions.

Morning light at
05:00am. I am already awake anyway by text messages from the east coast.
The three hour time change urging my being-and-becoming energy source
towards full early morning awareness.
Lobby
breakfast. A busy place with Memorial holiday weekend travelers. I am
sitting in the hotel lobby drinking my OJ and I glance to the side table
along the wall and open a Holy Bible. Perhaps a little start-the-day
meaningful reading is just what my multitasking mind, tired body and
hopeful soul needs just now.
The Norsemen assemble and head to the minivan. I-5 brings us south and last the to a
Three
hour time change means the mind and body and spirit return to an an
alive and refreshed state of being before 5am. Light already outside the
Comfort Inn room window. Spotty and I, father and son-bunkmates.
Breakfast
in the hotel lobby of eggs, bread, yogurt and orange juice. Not very
hungry just yet. Sedentary travel curbing the appetites that we will
surely witness in the days ahead as the cycling miles compound.
Relaxing
in the hotel lobby I open a Holy Bible on the table stand and flip
through randomly. Proverbs appears. Written long ago by King Solomon of
Israel, son of the Psalmist King David. I make a note of a few salient
passages that will do for tomorrow morning’s brief prayer blessings for
us Norsemen before our ride ‘s commencement.
We depart in the Toyota Minivan and head south on I-5 through Tacoma,
crossing the Nasqually River bridge and arriving in Olympia, WA, the state Capitol, an hour later.
First
chore-REI store to collect our ordered Thule Bike roof rack system that
will hold our four bikes safely for any necessary transits.

Now
racks without attached bikes is like a herd of adolescent male elk
without antlers. Lost in the world until their purpose for being becomes
clear.
We drive
urgently to downtown Olympia and past the state Capitol dome beside a
lake. Our two-wheeled friends are awaiting us. We stop at Old Town
Bicycle on Capitol Way South. The bike shop has rebuilt our shipments
from Atlanta and all is in order. Pick up some chain line and CO2
cartridges (used to inflate an inner tube in case of a flat tire). They
are not allowed on board a flight - in check-in or carry-on luggage.

The
van ride from Olympia to our starting point for the Norseman’s Passage
is about 200mi venturing westward and then north along the Pacific Coast
Scenic Byway. The meandering road brings us inland, the hugs the
Pacific shoreline. Massive vertical sheets of Sitka Spruce and Douglas
Fir trees greet the the rocky Northwest shoreline. A painter’s green
palette of endearing chlorophyll pigments. Ferns and yellow-bud flowers
align the roadway for miles.

From the
Hoh parking lot we stretch our legs with a lung-oxygenating brief trail
hike. A loop through a majestic rainforest. Sitka spruce, Hemlocks,
maples and conifers and curly ferns and wildflowers. Clubmoss clinging
to maple boughs like hairy bearded gentile beasts. Fallen massive
Spruces serving as nurselogs-their nutrients from decomposition giving
rise to a whole ecosystem from its cavities. Life’s passage, rebirth.
The grand circle before me and reminding me to live fully. I glance at
my young son. He will need some nursing along this journey. My job as
his father is not nearly done. And our time together over these next six
weeks will be magical.
Rainwaters
filter through these forests into small clear pools and streams.
Percolating through rich nutrients and Mali Guthrie way to the rivers
and onward to the ocean. More circles. Life cycles. The wheels of
eternal motion no different then what awaits us tomorrow morning. Human
locomotion but just the same as mere billions of drops of rain.
We
return to the main road. Dinner time. We stop near the Sappho junction
at the Hungry Bear Cafe. A mom and ooo family establishment for
limberjack locals and everyone else traveling through. The Norsemen
enjoying our company together. Jonah educates us on the theory of
interstellar travel through wormholes. A shortcut between universes.
Anyone present want to wormhole to Maine? No-that’s not what we signed
up for although there may be a wishful “Wormhole Day” or two when energy
wanes and the road dies not give you what you need. Mental and physical
toughness to withstand the challenges of interstate bicycle travel.


“You can’t lose with whiskey and flowers for the Mrs. Secret to a happy marriage.”

We
continue to Clallam Bay and then west along the coast to Neah Bay.
Threatening gray low-lying heavy clouds continue to hover throughout the
day.
Sundown races to
dusk. Lights from boats along the Strait of Juan de Fuca, briny boundary
waters between the USA and British Columbia, Canada.
Winding
roads along rock strewn beaches and bays. It is a cyclist’s dream to
ride beside the tides. The ebb and flow of a new journey that awaits
with great excited anticipation.

He writes words of encouragement and knowing-ness. “Enjoy, my brother. Spread your wings and enjoy. G-d speed.”


Monday, May 6, 2019
It is now nineteen days to the ride's commencement in the Pacific Northwest. Final preparations are underway. Last training rides to be taken before packing and shipping our bikes at the end of the week ahead.
One significant difference for this 2019 cross-country journey, compared to the 2017 edition, is our direction of travel. Heading west-to-east this time means less sun exposure towards the end of a long mileage day - the need for a strong headlight beam becomes essential for safety. I also ordered custom multicolored team jerseys with bright green, purple, and orange colors for better visibility. The jerseys will surely serve as a lasting memento for us four riders.
Spotty and I, father and son duo of the four riders, were interviewed by the regional Appen Media newspaper at their Alpharetta office. The paper was very kind to splash us on the front page this week! My hope is that it will generate traffic to this blog and springload donations to Children's Healthcare of Atlanta (CHOA). I kindly ask any blog readers to please spread our story to family and friends and share this blog address. Your support and interest truly provide the soulful fuel for a successful journey.
The newspaper story online can be found here (front page with article on page 12):
https://issuu.com/appen-inc/docs/ar_050219_40web
A very hearty thank you from me and my fellow Norsemen!
-Soaring Hawk-
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