Stage 5: May 29, 2019

Stage 5: May 29, 2019

Biked Miles: 53mi

Cumulative Miles: 337mi

The Norsemen have arrived to our highest latitude for our journey. Weary from a 3:00am arrival I awaken at 08:30am but feel refreshed. I step outside to snow-covered mountain peaks hidden from our view on our late night approach to Jasper.

Breakfast at the hotel with Peter. The others are still asleep. I admire our senior Norseman’s vitality and sensible humor. Peter is enjoying life. Loves his family dearly. A role model to many for his passion to ever discover and explore and engorge on the marrow of a complete life lived without regrets. I hope I maintain my health and his sense of humor and passion to travel and participate fully in an experiential life.

Jasper town has the usual comforts of a four-season retreat for nature lovers. Plenty of hotels, B&B’s, and downtown shops and restaurants.

Chores begin with laundry at the hotel washroom. Sherpa has bike shifting problems and has a bike cable replaced at a shop in town. Randal, the owner of The Bench, kindly fixes it up in a short time.

We begin cycling at about 2:00pm. Quite a late start yet a shorter ride has been scheduled for our itinerary today. We head to the entrance of the Icefields Parkway. Paired in two groups, Breezer and Jonah start earlier and miss the turnoff just after the park gate entrance. Sherpa and I, leaving from the bike shop a few minutes later, locate it and begin our ascent to Marmot Basin. It is an afternoon leg burn for over six miles as the grade pitches persistently steeper. We pass a woman on a bike from Holland. She waves us down to warn us that she has just passed a bear 500 meters behind along the road from where she had descended. “Fantastic,” I remark and she asks “aren’t you scared?!” Sherpa and I glance at each other, both of us wildlife lovers, and I remark how wonderful it would be to meet bear but we will heed her warning. On cycles going at a climbing pace of 6-8mph uphill we could always make a quick turn and accelerate downhill should the chase arise. Acknowledging the worst rare possible scenario should not preclude from the rapture of an encounter with wildness.

We continue to climb. A few hundred meters ahead I spot a small group of elk foraging just behind the tree line. We pass the 500 meter mark and no sign of bear. I begin to wonder if she has mistaken an elk for a bear as neither is native to Holland. Sherpa and I are having fun despite the climb’s physical challenge. It is years of exertion that has honed my mental acumen to set aside any pain emanating from muscular fatigue. Desire to reach the apex, to place oneself into a state of connectivity to the natural world - this elevates the spirit and allows the mind the ability to dampen such pain. It can be sorted or pulled apart like bits of taffee or congealed and compartmentalized. Pain from physical exertion is the simplest of pain to endure. The emotional pain from the death of a loved one, or rejection, or life’s unfairnesses - these are more challenging to accept and compartmentalize properly so that life may continue with even greater passion. There is no such thing as loss when love is placed at the focal center of the mind.

Sherpa and I reach the apex of Marmot Basin where there is a ski lift surrounded by some shops. To do so we cross under a road barrier for the final ascent at 13% grade and are rewarded with a grand view of jagged mountain tops above valleys of resolute pines. These are the pines that survived yet another frigid winter that has passed into Spring and has left its scars on the landscape. The fallen serving as nourishment for the others and for the smaller creatures who find homes amidst the disintegrating logs.

We race down Marmot mountain enjoying the cool breeze. We return to the Icefields Parkway and enter a snowy mountain kingdom. The “Promenade des Glaciers” of Jasper National Park. We are winding through the valley of the Norse gods. Lush forests, vast untamed aqua-tinted rivers speckled with islands, and the constant awe of granite jagged mountain peaks beyond every winding bend in the road.

We come upon Spotty who has a bent front small crank - one of his three cranks has failed. He must return with Peter to the bike shop in Jasper for repairs as his bike is inoperable as is and we are a long way from any bike shop down the road.

Sherpa and I continue with Breezer ahead for some miles. We stop at Athabasca Falls to enjoy the swift currents of the river as the waters descend into a steep crevice beneath us. The power of water over rocks and through shoots of jagged stone walls. These Athabasca waters will wind their way for nearly 4000 miles further before depositing into the Arctic Ocean

We continue southward and arrive at the Sunwapta Falls Lodge by early evening. A haven of comfortable cabins along the Icefields Parkway. Wash up and head to the pleasant dining room for an enjoyable dinner of French onion soup and chicken with potatoes and vegetables. Protein and carbs and vegetables and salts. Nutrients to maintain my own body’s resiliency just as a fallen nurse log does for her own kin in the forests. The interconnection of organic matter.

Glaciers becoming waterfalls, waterfalls supplying vast northern rivers, rivers the circulatory system of all of nature’s creatures and plants, and connecting to the seas where the currents and clouds begin the cycle again.

I lift my water glass. It has a faint green tint. The room sign states that this hue is due to the mineralization from the native waters. I am drinking glacier water and its contents, just like the awe of the vast wildness, are becoming part of me forevermore.

We put in to sleep. We have just begun to explore this glacial garden.

Stage 4: May 28, 2019

Stage 4: May 28, 2019

Biked Miles: 44mi
Cumulative Miles: 284mi

Sherpa and I decided the night before that we want to head out very early to bike. It will be a long day as we have over 500 miles of van driving after biking today to reposition to Jasper, Canada. Breezer and Spotty decide to take the day off and recover from yesterday’s long ride to Marblemount.

It is 05:00. I awaken and dress. Sherpa is sound asleep in the next room with Breezer. I stir him awake and head downstairs to retrieve our bikes from the storage shed our back. We ready the bikes and depart from the inn just before 06:00am. Chilly air beside the river as Sherpa and I welcome the morning light. We follow the river along Rt20. It is nearly all flat as we spin for 16mi. Sun emanating behind the mountaintops and lighting the white cottony clouds mixed with light blue skies. Massive granite peaks with waterfalls. The nocturnal moon watching overhead, waiting for its turn to slumber as the sun announces its presence.

At mi16 the road begins its pitch upwards. 4%, then 6%, why not 8% now. We climb on lowest gear. And we climb, and climb, and then climb more. Pulse pounding. The road is virtually al ours; only a rare car or truck passing us in the morning hours. The river is damned in multiple locations. Hydroelectric power being generated for the greater Seattle metropolitan area. 

Seemingly endless climbing for miles. Diablo Lake finally greets us. An incredible sight both at the base as well as from the rest area overlook turnoff above.

A brief downhill to Panther Creek at mi32.

Rushing waters! The roar of streams and percolations and river rapids and ten story waterfalls fill our ear canals incessantly. Even the drips seeping off moss covered rocks add to the symphony.

More climbing as we are steadily approaching Rainy Pass, the apex of the North Cascades. But the time to stop biking approaches. We promised to only bike until 10:00am today to allow for our journey to Jasper to commence. Peter, Breezer and Spotty catch up to us at about 09:30am in the van. Sherpa and I pause for a water bottle refill and a peanut butter and honey sandwich. Ten minutes later we are off again to continue our sweaty climb. Alas, Rainy Pass is just ahead a few more miles but we do stop at 10:00am sharp and load our bikes into the van roof where they join the others. Over 25 miles of climbing this morning. It will be yet another very memorable climb to recall years later. We settle in the van, sail across Rainy Pass and then Washington Pass and marvel at the views as massive orange-hued granite cliffs welcome us on each side of the steep descending road. If only we were younger, stronger, faster (or awakened at 04:00am rather than 05:00) - Sherpa and I most certainly would have pushed over the passes before 10:00am and been spinning ferociously down the road now for the 35 mile stretch to the valley floor into the town of Winthrop. But the climb is where the cyclist’s effort and soul resides, the easy descent merely the cheap reward. I think perhaps in life we forget that it is the climb, the effort, the sweat to overcome any challenges we must conquer - that is the true and lasting reward.

We coast past a massive convention of pine trees as the road descends to Winthrop. Thousands of calories burned and in need of proper replacement. I see a sign for ice cream shakes and inquire if anyone would like one? No arm twisting needed. We park and saunter over to Sheri’s Sweet Shop. Plenty of flavors to choose from. I order a malt shake with Praline Pecan and Chocolate. Wow!, slurp, delicious, and it is gone. But so many flavors as yet untried. Let’s make it a double reward! I order a second malt with Rocky Road and Mint Chocolate Chip. Fresh breath never hurts! Also delicious. Sheri’s store motto is written on the wooden beam: “You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream. And that’s kind of the same thing.” Satisfyingly agree!

We continue through Twisp and turn left to continue on Rt20. About 20mi later the road is blocked by barricade fences. We are only a few more miles to a junction that would allow us to continue north on the road to the Canadian border crossing. A few hundred yards up there is a construction crew. Breezer hops on a bike and bypasses the barricade to inquire. There is a collapsed section of roadway and the crew will not allow us to pass. This is a frustrating detour as the only other option is to retrace our drive back to the Twisp junction and then proceed south and east to the Columbia River. This brings us counterclockwise to Pareros and then north on Hwy97 through Brewster where the Okanogan River joins the Columbia River. We are on the Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway, an agricultural corridor of massive apple orchards, some wineries, and other industry bordering the Okanogan River. We pass through Omak and Tomasket. At Oraville we turn left on Central Ave and the road continues as the Loomis-Oraville Rd. The temperature has risen to a dry mid-80’s, desert-parched hills as the terrain changes dramatically. We turn at a nondescript sign at a junction informing us of the border ahead. It closes at 5:00pm and we are fortunate to have made it in just enough time. The border patrol officer checks our passports. Any weapons or drugs on board the vehicle. How long are we planning to stay. I try to be friendly and start to chat about our cross country adventure but he’s not interested. All business. Oh well. A motley crew as we hand him three US passports, a German passport (Peter has this one to ease international travel without visa requirements) and an Indian passport with a permanent resident Green Card. A few minutes later we are allowed to pass and we continue onward. It will be over 400mikes further to Jasper, Canada - our destination tonight. I designed this van ride to reposition us to the top of the Icefields Parkway in a region of stunning beauty. For cyclists, the Jasper-Banff region is one of the bucket list advevtures for the scenery and rigorous challenges of the many climbs through the heart of glacier country in the Canadian Rockies.

Peter drives onward. Sun setting period as the light the light reflects images of our four bikes against the sides of stone canyon walls. A thick bull moose spotted beside a road fence! 

We arrive in Kamloops where we stop for dinner at Joey’s Restaurant, a fish and chips place. I take the driver seat now for a stretch as Peter and I exchange driving responsibilities and rest alternatively.

We connect my iPhone to the car’s stereo and listen to some of my eclectic song mix. Peter enjoys the romantic songs so the Norsemen mellow to the tunes for awhile. Darkness finally descends by 10:30pm. We lose an hour as we cross a date line into mountain time, rather than Pacific. We arrive weary but relieved into Jasper at about 2:00am. We settle into our rooms at the Mount Robson Inn and quickly descend to deep sleep. 

We have reached the pinnacle north of our Norseman’s Passage journey. Hopefully, the glaciers will be excited to greet us in the morning.

Stage 3: May 27, 2019

Stage 3: May 27, 2019
Biked Miles: 88mi
Cumulative: 240mi

4:59am. I awaken. Sunrise as I step from the comfortable Tides Inn room onto the deck overlooking Puget Sound. Deer walk along the shore below me wading through the water. The ferry dock is visible just a few hundred yards away. We must catch the reserved place on the 08:00am ferry from Port Townsend to Whidbey Island; otherwise a 90min wait for the next would be required. A rush to collect breakfast. Sandy, the front desk manager, helps to pack each of us with to-go bags of bagels, muffins, and beverages. We load up the van and head just a minute to queue for the Kennewick ferry. A generous sized vessel that accommodates plenty of vehicles of all sizes. A very pleasant 30min jaunt across the bay to the Coupeville landing on Whidbey Island. Harbor seals are spotted foraging in the calm waters.

Now on land at the ferry parking lot we unload the bikes from the van’s roof rack, carefully clean and lube our gear boxes and chains and pump tires to approx. 110psi. Usual morning regimen. Joanne and Dean, locals walking their dogs, are curious and we chat graciously about our cross country journey and how beautiful Whidbey Island is to cycle through. Dean is a cyclist as well. They are very kind and take our group photo to post on their Instagram site along with the blog address. Thank you Joanne and Dean!

My family and I vacationed on Whidbey some years ago when our kids were younger. Like any fun and relaxing beach vacation we share many wonderful and unique family memories and stories.



We start cycling from the ferry dock along the land bridge adjacent to Crockett Lake and continue onward along Rt20 to meander through marshes filled with cattails and songbirds. I spot a brown coyote prancing through tall hay grasses in a farm field as he enjoys the warmth of this morning’s sun The road winds to the junction with S Main St. We turn right and descend to Front St and pass through the heart of old Coupeville with quaint shops and inns. The road veers left at the Coupeville Town Park where a over 700 year old Douglas Fir tree felled specimen is on display. The rings that bind our time to memories. 



A quiet neighborhood stretch and then a precipice, beautiful architectural homes hugging the cliff side as we spin downhill on Madrona Way. The road is lined with beautiful orange-brown Pacific Madrona trees, their bark magnificently on display in the morning’s light. I recall how fascinated I was when I first saw these trees here and along Lake Crescent years ago, studying the complexity of their bark peels. Another of nature’s dazzling gifts to this world.

We continue to Rt20 briefly and then take Penn Cove Rd around the bay. A wonderful stretch of rolling hills. We come upon llama and sheep in a pasture and stop to photo them. An idyllic setting as the sun warms. Spotty tried to clip out if his pedals but fails at the task and finds himself fallen into grasses beside the road. He’s OK, a soft landing after all and we have a good chuckle for his novice biking skills yet rapid learning curve. He ungrasses himself and hops back onto his saddle. Young cowboy stud. Handsome blond with blue eyes and great sense of humor. He’s been raised to be independent and tough and resilient and too figure things out for himself with some gentle guidance.

The road continues as Scenic Heights Rd fitted with beautiful cliff side homes around Oak Harbor. Off to our right we can see the North Cascade snow capped mountains where we are headed tomorrow. We turn onto Rt20, the Cascade Loop, go through the main shopping area and then through the old town of Oak Harbor. Turn left onto SE Regatta Dr, climb away from the harbor and then turn right onto Rt20 once again. The main drag on the island winds through rolling climbs and descents, past Monkey Hill Rd and Noisey Circle. We arrive at Deception Pass State Park and meet Peter in the parking lot. Busy holiday weekend. We laid up the bikes on the car roof and then hike to the bridge connecting Whidbey with Fidalgo Island. It is 162 feet high and I had an unpleasant attack of heebie-jeebies trying to walk across this bridge years ago. A bout of acrophobia. I march out to the center now to join Spotty and Breezer. Sherpa has his own bout and won’t join me. A good laugh on his behalf. But this time I can through it and enjoy the fantastic view of Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands further north. We take the oath down from the bridge and then go the beach below. Families enjoying the beautiful day. I am on a mission now. This beach has an exquisite collection of rocks of every shape, color and size. A collectors dream if you happen to like rocks. We have a soothing collection back home on display, many collected from this very beach years ago, tumbled and polished. I can fiend hours here but collect just five for safe keeping and renewal of wonderful old and now new memories.

The Norsemen are hungry. We search for snack bar food at Cranberry Lake but the wait is far too long for overpriced fare. We decide to head across the bridge and then locate a Mexican food truck, Tacos Tecalitlan, at the junction of Rt20 and Thompson Rd. I enjoy a delicious Burrito and Gorditas. The others enjoy their meal equally as well. Fuel for the long afternoon ride that now awaits.

We saddle up and head east on Rt20. Fifty miles to traverse across the Skagit Valley on the Cascade Loop Scenic Highway. The beautiful Skagit River winds through the valley. Mostly relatively flat, we have our first opportunity of the trip for a long stretch of roadway. We pass through various small towns: Burlington, Sedro-Woolley, Lyman and Hamilton. Farms and horses and cows resting in their grassy pastures. The Cascade mountains ahead peeking their heads above the valley floor. We pass the turn to Baker Lake Rd, go through Concrete and wind our way through Rockport, pass blueberry fields and then the final push to Marblemount. I increase the pace and Spotty legs out the final stretch. He’s put in along day, just under 90 miles, the longest riding day yet for the young man. Proud of his persistence. In due time he will be leading us aging Norsemen.

We arrive to Marblemount and check in to the Buffalo Run Inn, a converted historic 1889 roadhouse for miners and lumberjacks in its time. Now a comfortable hotel with clean rooms and shared bathrooms and common living room. Perfect for the Norsemen. We have dinner across the street at the Buffalo Run restaurant. Tasty and filling. Spotty is ravenous. We share a celebratory piece of homemade ‘Fruit of the Forest’ berry pie with vanilla ice cream to finish off a fine meal. Food becoming fuel to burn in our quad tanks each day.

Shower and off to bed. Plans for an early departure tomorrow morning. The North Cascade climb awaits.