Stage 4: May 28, 2019

Stage 4: May 28, 2019

Biked Miles: 44mi
Cumulative Miles: 284mi

Sherpa and I decided the night before that we want to head out very early to bike. It will be a long day as we have over 500 miles of van driving after biking today to reposition to Jasper, Canada. Breezer and Spotty decide to take the day off and recover from yesterday’s long ride to Marblemount.

It is 05:00. I awaken and dress. Sherpa is sound asleep in the next room with Breezer. I stir him awake and head downstairs to retrieve our bikes from the storage shed our back. We ready the bikes and depart from the inn just before 06:00am. Chilly air beside the river as Sherpa and I welcome the morning light. We follow the river along Rt20. It is nearly all flat as we spin for 16mi. Sun emanating behind the mountaintops and lighting the white cottony clouds mixed with light blue skies. Massive granite peaks with waterfalls. The nocturnal moon watching overhead, waiting for its turn to slumber as the sun announces its presence.

At mi16 the road begins its pitch upwards. 4%, then 6%, why not 8% now. We climb on lowest gear. And we climb, and climb, and then climb more. Pulse pounding. The road is virtually al ours; only a rare car or truck passing us in the morning hours. The river is damned in multiple locations. Hydroelectric power being generated for the greater Seattle metropolitan area. 

Seemingly endless climbing for miles. Diablo Lake finally greets us. An incredible sight both at the base as well as from the rest area overlook turnoff above.

A brief downhill to Panther Creek at mi32.

Rushing waters! The roar of streams and percolations and river rapids and ten story waterfalls fill our ear canals incessantly. Even the drips seeping off moss covered rocks add to the symphony.

More climbing as we are steadily approaching Rainy Pass, the apex of the North Cascades. But the time to stop biking approaches. We promised to only bike until 10:00am today to allow for our journey to Jasper to commence. Peter, Breezer and Spotty catch up to us at about 09:30am in the van. Sherpa and I pause for a water bottle refill and a peanut butter and honey sandwich. Ten minutes later we are off again to continue our sweaty climb. Alas, Rainy Pass is just ahead a few more miles but we do stop at 10:00am sharp and load our bikes into the van roof where they join the others. Over 25 miles of climbing this morning. It will be yet another very memorable climb to recall years later. We settle in the van, sail across Rainy Pass and then Washington Pass and marvel at the views as massive orange-hued granite cliffs welcome us on each side of the steep descending road. If only we were younger, stronger, faster (or awakened at 04:00am rather than 05:00) - Sherpa and I most certainly would have pushed over the passes before 10:00am and been spinning ferociously down the road now for the 35 mile stretch to the valley floor into the town of Winthrop. But the climb is where the cyclist’s effort and soul resides, the easy descent merely the cheap reward. I think perhaps in life we forget that it is the climb, the effort, the sweat to overcome any challenges we must conquer - that is the true and lasting reward.

We coast past a massive convention of pine trees as the road descends to Winthrop. Thousands of calories burned and in need of proper replacement. I see a sign for ice cream shakes and inquire if anyone would like one? No arm twisting needed. We park and saunter over to Sheri’s Sweet Shop. Plenty of flavors to choose from. I order a malt shake with Praline Pecan and Chocolate. Wow!, slurp, delicious, and it is gone. But so many flavors as yet untried. Let’s make it a double reward! I order a second malt with Rocky Road and Mint Chocolate Chip. Fresh breath never hurts! Also delicious. Sheri’s store motto is written on the wooden beam: “You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream. And that’s kind of the same thing.” Satisfyingly agree!

We continue through Twisp and turn left to continue on Rt20. About 20mi later the road is blocked by barricade fences. We are only a few more miles to a junction that would allow us to continue north on the road to the Canadian border crossing. A few hundred yards up there is a construction crew. Breezer hops on a bike and bypasses the barricade to inquire. There is a collapsed section of roadway and the crew will not allow us to pass. This is a frustrating detour as the only other option is to retrace our drive back to the Twisp junction and then proceed south and east to the Columbia River. This brings us counterclockwise to Pareros and then north on Hwy97 through Brewster where the Okanogan River joins the Columbia River. We are on the Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway, an agricultural corridor of massive apple orchards, some wineries, and other industry bordering the Okanogan River. We pass through Omak and Tomasket. At Oraville we turn left on Central Ave and the road continues as the Loomis-Oraville Rd. The temperature has risen to a dry mid-80’s, desert-parched hills as the terrain changes dramatically. We turn at a nondescript sign at a junction informing us of the border ahead. It closes at 5:00pm and we are fortunate to have made it in just enough time. The border patrol officer checks our passports. Any weapons or drugs on board the vehicle. How long are we planning to stay. I try to be friendly and start to chat about our cross country adventure but he’s not interested. All business. Oh well. A motley crew as we hand him three US passports, a German passport (Peter has this one to ease international travel without visa requirements) and an Indian passport with a permanent resident Green Card. A few minutes later we are allowed to pass and we continue onward. It will be over 400mikes further to Jasper, Canada - our destination tonight. I designed this van ride to reposition us to the top of the Icefields Parkway in a region of stunning beauty. For cyclists, the Jasper-Banff region is one of the bucket list advevtures for the scenery and rigorous challenges of the many climbs through the heart of glacier country in the Canadian Rockies.

Peter drives onward. Sun setting period as the light the light reflects images of our four bikes against the sides of stone canyon walls. A thick bull moose spotted beside a road fence! 

We arrive in Kamloops where we stop for dinner at Joey’s Restaurant, a fish and chips place. I take the driver seat now for a stretch as Peter and I exchange driving responsibilities and rest alternatively.

We connect my iPhone to the car’s stereo and listen to some of my eclectic song mix. Peter enjoys the romantic songs so the Norsemen mellow to the tunes for awhile. Darkness finally descends by 10:30pm. We lose an hour as we cross a date line into mountain time, rather than Pacific. We arrive weary but relieved into Jasper at about 2:00am. We settle into our rooms at the Mount Robson Inn and quickly descend to deep sleep. 

We have reached the pinnacle north of our Norseman’s Passage journey. Hopefully, the glaciers will be excited to greet us in the morning.